Pattern Feature - Stormy
Updated: Sep 10, 2020
Meet Stormy.
Stormy is the first adult garment I ever designed. And if we are being really honest, the first adult sweater I ever finished knitting. Yes, that's right. I designed a sweater without ever finishing one. But hear me out! I did take Aroha Knits' Swatch Studio course to learn how to design, and I had knit probably dozens of baby sweaters, which more or less add up to one big one, right?
I learned so much designing this sweater, truly. I learned that pima cotton is heavier than it looks - so feel free to experiment with other fibres here. I learned that you can't practice your Continental on a huge area of Stockinette and then switch back to English part way - it definitely shows. And I learned that while not every design has to be groundbreaking, it is fun to do something different and unique.
Stormy looks great on so many body shapes - I wore it through my entire pregnancy and beyond. The boat neck and simple front is the perfect backdrop for your favourite statement or long pendant necklace. I love it equally with a pencil skirt in yarn with a little sheen, as I do with my favourite distressed denim.
Without further ado, I am now sharing Stormy for free below. Please pin this post on Pinterest if you like it, and share your projects on instagram by tagging @handknitsandhygge and #StormySweater. Sharing helps my business grow! You can also choose to purchase the ad-free PDF on Payhip.
Stormy Sweater by Nicky Jensen. Copyright 2018. All Rights Reserved.
About:
Spring is a time of transition, most notably in the weather. Where I live, in Canada, we emerge cautiously from hibernation as the first signs of spring start to appear. This time is full of nourishing rain showers, drops glistening on the earliest fronds of green. The lace pattern worked down each sleeve of this sweater reminds me of one of the first blooms we see in this region, lily-of-the-valley, with its rows of delicate, drooping blossoms. A light, breathable cotton sweater is just what I reach for during this time of unpredictable weather. The lace motif, combined with an unusual open-back construction puts an interesting twist on this otherwise mellow project. This pattern is designed for ladies sizes XS to XL, with enough positive ease to make this your new go to for both warmer days and layering.
Needles:
US size 6/4mm 16”/40cm circular needle (or size needed to obtain gauge).
US size 6/4mm DPNs (or size needed to obtain gauge).
Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (100% pima cotton; 220yds [200metres]/3.5oz [100g]).
Sample uses colour #3756 “Slate”.
Estimated yardage:
XS: 358 grams / 788 yds / 716 metres.
S: 406 grams / 893 yds / 812 metres.
M: 467 grams / 1027 yds / 934 metres.
L: 508 grams / 1118 yds / 1016 metres.
XL: 565 grams / 1243 yds / 1130 metres.
Gauge: 20 stitches/26 rows worked flat = 4”/10cm square in Stockinette Stitch using U.S. 6/4.0mm needles after blocking.
20 stitches/26 rows worked flat = 4”/10cm square in Lace Motif using U.S. 6/4.0mm needles after blocking.
Other Notions: eight stitch markers, two stitch holders or waste yarn, two 1”/2.5cm buttons, darning needle for finishing.
Size XS:
Chest circumference: 32” / 81 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 14.5” / 37 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 9.75” / 25 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 16.5” / 43 cm
Underarm to hem: 15.75” / 40 cm.
Size S:
Chest circumference: 36” / 81 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 15” / 38 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 10.25” / 26 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17” / 43 cm.
Underarm to hem: 15.75” / 40.5 cm.
Size M:
Chest circumference: 40” / 101.5 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 16” / 40.5 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 11” / 28 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17” / 43 cm.
Underarm to hem: 16.25” / 41 cm.
Size L:
Chest circumference: 44” / 112 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 17” / 43 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 12” / 30.5 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17.5” / 44.5 cm.
Underarm to hem: 16.5” / 42 cm.
Size XL:
Chest circumference: 48” / 122 cm.
Shoulder-to-shoulder: 17.5” / 44.5 cm.
Upper arm circumference: 13.5” / 34 cm.
Underarm to wrist: 17.5” / 44.5 cm.
Underarm to hem: 16.75” / 42.5 cm.
Techniques Used:
Knit & purl, bind off, lace increases and decreases
Long tail cast on (see Supplemental Resources)
Working in the round on circular needles
Working in the round on double pointed needles
Abbreviations:
DPNs - double pointed needles
k - knit
k2tog - knit two stitches together (decreases 1 st)
kfb - knit into front and back of one stitch (increases 1 st)
p - purl
ssk - slip the next 2 stitches, one by one, knitwise; insert the tip of the left needle, from left to right, into the fronts of those 2 stitches and knit them together (decreases 1 stitch)
yo - yarn-over
Pattern Notes:
Construction: This open-back sweater uses raglan construction and is worked in one piece, flat on a circular needle. It is designed to have positive ease for a comfortable fit that showcases the drape of the cotton yarn. After the initial increases are worked, the stitches for the sleeves are separated onto stitch holders. The body is continued flat on a circular needle. Next, each sleeve is worked by transferring held stitches from stitch holder onto DPNs (or preferred needle for small circumference circular knitting) and worked in the round. The overlapping back sections have a buttonhole at the collar on the back of either shoulder. Each side gradually tapers toward the waist resulting in an open lower back.
Note on lace pattern: The lace pattern continues from the yoke onto the sleeves - pay careful attention to what round you start on for each size so that it lines up seamlessly.
Pattern Stitches:
Seed Stitch: (multiple of 2 stitches):
All RS rows: *k1, p1; repeat from *to end.
All WS rows: *p1, k1; repeat from *to end.
Sleeve Lace Pattern:
Round 1 and all odd-numbered rounds: p2, k9, p2, k2, p2, k9, p2.
Round 2: p2, k3, k2tog, k4, yo, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, yo, k4, ssk, k3, p2.
Round 4: p2, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, yo, k4, ssk, k2, p2.
Round 6: p2, k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k4, ssk, k1, p2.
Round 8: p2, k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, yo, k4, ssk, p2.
Pattern:
Collar:
Cast on 146 [158, 176, 192, 204] stitches on circular needle using Long Tail cast on or preferred cast-on method for a neat edge.
Row 1 (RS): seed stitch across.
Row 2 (WS): *work in seed stitch for 42 [46, 52, 56, 60] stitches, place marker, seed stitch 10 [10, 10, 12, 12] stitches, place marker; repeat from *once, seed stitch to end.
Row 3 (RS): seed stitch 2 stitches, bind off 2 stitches (1st buttonhole), seed stitch to 4 stitches before next m, bind off 2 stitches (2nd buttonhole), *seed stitch to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *3 more times, seed stitch to end.
Row 4 (WS): seed stitch across, slipping markers, to last marker, seed stitch 3 stitches, cast on 2, seed stitch to last 2 stitches, cast on 2, seed stitch to end.
Row 5 (RS): *seed stitch to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *3 more times, seed stitch to end (162 [174, 192, 208, 220] stitches).
Row 6 (WS): seed stitch across, slipping markers, to end.
Yoke:
Work Rows 1-17 [1-17, 1-17, 3-17, 3-17] once, as follows:
Row 1 (RS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 2: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p5, k2, p2, k2, p to marker, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 3: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k4, place marker, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, place marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 (WS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker, k2, p2, k2, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 5: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, slip marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 7: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, slip marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 9: As row 5.
Row 11: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, slip marker, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, slip marker, yo, k4, ssk, k2, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 13: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k2, k2tog, k4, yo, k1, remove marker, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, remove marker, k1, yo, k4, ssk, k2, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 14: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p1, k1, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k1, p1, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 15: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, p1, k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k2, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2, yo, k4, ssk, k1, p1, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 16: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p1, place marker, k2, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k2, place marker, p1, repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 17: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, slip marker, p2, k2tog, k4, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k3, yo, k4, ssk, p2, slip marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Work rows 18-25 2 [2, 3, 3, 4] times as follows:
Row 18 and all WS rows: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker, k2, p9, k2, p2, k2, p9, k2, slip marker, p to marker, slip marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 19: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 2 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, slip marker, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 21: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 4 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 23: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 6 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Row 25: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *k to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to marker, slip marker, work row 8 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to last stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from *once more, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Work rows 18-19 [18-23, 18-19, 18-23, 18-19] once more (288 [314, 346, 368, 394] stitches).
Divide for sleeves:
Next row (WS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, *p to marker, remove marker and place next 50 [54, 58, 62, 66] stitches on stitch holder, remove marker; repeat from *once more, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Body:
Row 1 (RS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, knit to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 2 and 4 (WS): work 6 stitches in seed stitch, p to last 6 stitches, seed stitch to end.
Row 3: work 6 stitches in seed stitch, k2tog, knit to last 8 stitches, ssk, seed stitch to end.
Repeat these 4 rows until work measures 14.75 [15, 15.25, 15.5, 15.75]” / 37.5 [38, 38.75, 39.5, 40] cm from underarm.
Work 5 rows in seed stitch.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Sleeves:
For each sleeve, transfer 50 [54, 58, 62, 66] stitches from stitch holder or waste yarn and distribute onto DPNs. Place markers at beginning of round and before first purl stitch. Continue the Sleeve Lace from the yoke as follows:
Beginning on Round 3 [7, 3, 7, 3], repeat these 16 rounds 6 [6, 6, 7, 6] times:
Round 1 and all odd-numbered rounds: knit to marker, slip marker, p2, k9, p2, k2, p2, k9, p2, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 2: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 2 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 4: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 4 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 6: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 6 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 8: knit to marker, slip marker, work round 8 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, knit to end, slip marker.
Round 10: As round 2.
Round 12: As round 4.
Round 14: As round 6.
Round 16: knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, slip marker, work round 8 of Sleeve Lace Pattern, ssk, knit to end, slip marker.
Work rounds 1 - 11 [1-15, 1-13, 1-3, 1-15] once more (38 [42, 46, 48, 54] stitches).
Work 5 rounds in seed stitch. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing:
Weave in ends and block to measurements. Attach buttons to back of collar in line with buttonholes. You may wish to reinforce the underarms using a darning needle.
About Nicky Jensen:
Nicky is a medical radiation technologist in Toronto, Canada. She has been knitting and crocheting for over 25 years. Recently, she discovered a passion for knitwear design after enrolling in a course as something to keep her occupied during her maternity leave. Other interests include exploring new places both locally and abroad, and practicing hygge (the Danish art of making oneself cozy) with her husband, baby daughter, and dog.
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